Sleeves Part 3: Raglans. (Part One of Two)

Continuing Kim McBrien Evans’s series on garment size and fit, this instalment tackles the Raglan sleeve structure.

Other pieces in this series:

• Sweater Fit Questions: Sleeves Part 1, Part 2
• Demystifying Ease in Garment Patterns – Part 1, Part 2
• New Representative Sizing Standards for Garments that Fit
• Inclusive Sizing: Disability, Non-Average Measurements, Modification
• Inclusive Design Resources for Designers and Makers

The History of the Raglan


The raglan sleeve was first drafted as a solution to a very specific challenge: an amputated arm. FitzRoy Somerset, the first Baron Raglan, was injured in the Battle of Waterloo and lost his right arm. The Baron worked with his tailor to develop a one-piece sleeve construction with a diagonal that spans from the neckline/collar, around the shoulder joint to the underarm. This innovation allowed the Baron Raglan ease of dressing and the arm movement required for him to wield his sword using his non-dominant left arm and continue his military career.

Understanding the origin of the raglan sleeve can help us understand how it should fit: more relaxed (less fitted) to the shoulder joint to allow for full arm movement and comfort in the garment.

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All images by Kim McBrien Evans.