First Experiences Rug Tufting: Making a Colour-Wheel Rug

5 October 2022
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I jumped headfirst into learning rug tufting without thinking it all the way through. I got an idea in my head that I wanted to make a colour wheel rug using foraged and homegrown natural dyes and locally sourced wool. The rug was already fully formed in my head before I had even looked up where to buy a rug tufting gun, but, to be fair, my art practice has a lot to do with creating colour wheels from local colours. How hard could rug tufting be, right?! I found a company that sold tufting guns and supplies and ordered the works: a tufting gun, cloth woven specifically for tufting, clippers to trim the finished rugs, and carpet gripper rods for stretching the cloth onto the frame. My partner built a tufting frame out of two-by-fours and I was off to the races.

I started with a few small rugs to get the hang of the tufting gun and to learn what types of yarn work best for tufting, and I quickly learned that it’s easy to hold multiple strands of thinner yarn together to get the right yarn weight to make a great rug. These first rugs weren’t beautiful, but they taught me the basics and how to troubleshoot when things go wrong. I used up the small bits in my yarn stash left over from other projects, and I used up those yarns that had been sitting in my stash for years that I didn’t know what to do with. Rug tufting is a truly great stash buster! My first few rugs included the leftovers from my past few collections of knitting patterns, and having these yarns live on in a new way was a surprising plus of learning rug tufting. When I say that I had to troubleshoot the first few rugs, I mean that I made every possible mistake before getting the hang of it. If you decide to take up tufting, I’m here to help you not make the same mistakes I did. The company I ordered my supplies from provides instructions and videos to help you get started, but there is a lot of finesse needed to get you started on your tufting journey. My first try at tufting garnered a truly ugly rug. It used up the most clashing colours from my stash—reds, greens, variegated, and speckled yarns, all mixed together to form a monster. Even my partner Arlin commented on how the rug hurt their eyes, and they almost always praise the things I make.
image description: a handmade rug made of many colours of wool yarn

The “ugly” rug. 

In the first twenty minutes of tufting, I learned three important lessons:

1. The tufting gun moves fast, and it is made up of sharp bits coming out the front end. Take care to tie your hair back, keep your hands steady, and unplug the machine when you’ve got to (inevitably) re-thread it. Luckily, I haven’t had any accidents or injuries from it, but it’s a machine that needs to be respected.

2. Work slowly. Yes, the machine itself moves very quickly, but, as the person working the machine, you’ve got to take your time when figuring out where you’ll be putting in the yarns. If you go too quickly and overwork an area, you’ll end up chewing up the backing fabric and making a messy hole in your work. Yes, I did this on the first rug I made (but I think it adds to its ugly charm).

3. You don’t have to cram each row of yarn right up against the last. Give the rows of tufting a little room between each other so that the pile is able to spread out a bit. My first rug is very densely packed. Yes, it works, but the rug is quite stiff.

Tuft2

Planning the colour wheel.

image description: a handmade rug project, partially completed

In progress.

To finish the rug once the tufting itself is complete is a whole other ordeal. All of the resources, blogs, and forums I studied described different ways to finish your work, so I tried multiple methods before settling on the one that worked best for me. I backed my first rugs with heavy woven cotton that is okay, but I figured out a better and more durable way to finish my rugs. What I now do is a multi-step process, but it gives the rugs a great finish. Here are the steps I use to finish my tufted work:
  1. First, apply Roberts 6700 adhesive to the back of the work to secure every strand of yarn. Let the glue dry overnight.
  2. The next step is to cut out the work, leaving a 5 cm (2 inch) edge around the tufted work that you’ll fold over later.
  3. Use your clippers to clean up the front and get the tufted surface looking even.
  4. Using a hot glue gun, fold the excess backing material onto the back of the work and glue it down securely. I fold mine so the tufted edge is slightly folded over too, so you can’t see where the tufting ends.
  5. Cut out a piece of your backing—I use carpet foam (that is also sold as a moisture barrier)—and make sure that it will fit just inside of the space on the back where the rug ends.
  6. Carefully spray Super 77 spray glue on the entire back surface of the tufted work and place the backing foam onto the rug. I pile books onto the foam to hold the backing securely to the rug until the spray glue is dry.
  7. Once the spray glue is dry, I use my hot glue gun to carefully glue the edges of the foam to the edge where the carpet fold starts. Be mindful not to get the hot glue anywhere that you’ll see it.
Tuft5

The back, prior to finishing.

Tuft4

Rug tufting is expensive to get into—you can expect to spend about $600 on the equipment and supplies—and it takes some practice, but it is a rewarding activity that ends with you having a useable object. Happy tufting!

Getting Started

Caitlin purchased her “cut pile” gun from Tuft the World. They also sell trimmers, backing fabric, and the machine replacement parts.

The glue, backing foam, and carpet grip rods can be purchased at any hardware store that has flooring installation materials.

All photos by or courtesy of Caitlin ffrench.

Copyright © Caitlin ffrench except as indicated.
Caitlin ffrench headshot

About Caitlin ffrench

Caitlin ffrench is an artist living in East Vancouver. She works with wildcrafted pigments from the land bases she visits and she uses string to make all sorts of magical things.

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